RE: AVG Anti-Virus Free unavailable
If the update manager is checked and if on AVG overview page has the notation in green that you are protected, the software should be working. If not, try to manually update. If that works, then AVG should work.
Perhaps the message was about being unable to access the updates?
Otherwise, then the simplest is to just download the program and reinstall.
RE: New laptop and download into with no 9 pin connector.
davepcpowernet.......
how do you create a clickable link like yours?
click on the Advanced Post Form link at the top of the regular posting blank, put in the information of whatever, click on the globe with the chain link and follow the prompts.
Just like here
RE: Zero out all Hard Drive info before donating computer
dacepcpowernet writes "Not quite true.
" have been working with HDs from the days of MFM and RLL controllers, I can tell you that there are many ways that are mechanically non destructive to eliminate personal data. Some are slow and some are very fast.
Low level format (this is not a DOS format, DOS FAT and NTFS is a high level format) will completely rearrainge the PHYSICAL location o
I will get off my soapbox now...
Note to self, I really should quit reading these forums...
Now you don't want to do that!
Just look at all the good discussions we can have.
First, I do not dispute anything you replied with. Everything you said I agree with, but . . . Perceived liability with any information potentially on a drive for the people who are professional skeptics (read lawyers?).
I personally have been working with drives since the days of the 30-30 Winchester - 30 platters, 30 megabytes and the PC drives since g=c800:5 to low level format them using debug. I think we probably started on PCs with the first 10Mb drives that became the IBM XT.
Anyway, before this thread is limited for any further "argument" I at least wanted to clear the air that you are perfectly correct, but also I still maintain that given the time and labor for a company to wipe drives is more expensive than replacing them with a cheap IDE drive. With the adoption of Vista, many XP systems are being discarded that are still more than adequate for many schools that don't have the funds to purchase the latest and greatest. I know, for I taught for 3 years after retiring in a computer/electronics program in a high school level classroom. Older system are generally not welcome, however.
RE: Zero out all Hard Drive info before donating computer
scratcherky writes "In short, mechanically destroy the hard drive is the only sure way! "
Thats a Myth!
Many of the overwriting programs that where posted above will do a fine job of rearrainging the drive data. There really is no need to physically destroy the hard drive.
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(snip - snip)
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Another sure way is to reimage the drive, Drive image (still may be
Just not sure why folks feel that physical destruction is the key.
Not quite true. Whenever a track is written to a drive, a slight overlap to each side is also written. Each pass over the area of a track is never quite in the same place, but is close enough that reading or writing makes little practical difference. Yet there remains that faint ghost image that is still the remains of the original data. NSA for one, with their sophisticated disk readers has recovered information from drives overwritten with rather sophisticated software. Granted, most information thieves probably can't read those side tracks, and neither do most of us have enough top secret information that would warrant such tactics, but the fact does remain that still the truth is that the ONLY sure way of absolutely protecting your information is to destroy your old drive.
This is what I would tell my clients who had lots of customer and company data on their old systems. It was cheaper for them buy an inexpensive hard drive, substitute that for the original, and destroy the old one before donating any old computers. That way there was no way of anyone coming back to them with any claims for information mismanagement. And it was all deductible as a donation.
RE: Zero out all Hard Drive info before donating computer
If you have financial data, tax returns, etc. the very safest and also considering the low cost of hard drives, is to remove the drive and take a hammer to it. Bending the platters and destroyung the read/write heads will make it very difficult for anyone to retrieve the data.
RE: Motorhome manueverability
It's all a matter of practice. After driving truck for many years, lowboys, logs and belly dumps, fifth wheel maneuver was second nature. However, we never have used a fiver as an RV. I do find that it is easier to maneuver than a fifth wheel, that is, as long as I disconnect the toad. Compare a straight truck to an 18 wheeler. One big advantage is that you always can see the rear corners in the mirrors versus with a fifth wheel when cramped will hide the off corner.
RE: ISP provider versus email address ...
I have an email account using my domain name hosted at a provider in Arizona for $8.95 a year. No web pages just an email account for up to 5 mailboxes. I have to administer it but for that price, not a problem. If someone is interested PM me and I can give you a link.
RE: Tow Vehicle Excessive Tire Wear
Most toads will have at least some excessive front tire wear. The reason being that as the MH turns, the toad has to turn first the opposite direction because the tail swing of the MH swings right in the case of a left turn and left in a right turn. That forces some quick changes in steering on the toad and subsequent scuffing of the front tires. this is especially true in the case of class Cs with their long rear overhang. Also as steering corrections going down a straight highway will swing the toad also from side to side, every time side force is applied to the towbar, it will cause some scuffing of the tires until they turn to follow.
RE: RV.NET Down over the Weekend?
I was able to access using the few posts I received over the weekend. This morning I received the backlog of over 70, dating back to Friday. I would normally get about 10 or 15 each day for those threads I am following.
RE: Advice on our first Class C purchase
ter using it. so i'm curious--what kind of mods? we're quite comfortable with ours.....just a few vague little mods needed in logistics. so how'd you solve yours?
Took out the overhead bed and replace with some plastic storage drawer units fastened to a sheet of 1/8" paneling sitting on the plywood. If we need the bed, it is easy to remove.
Replaced the jackknife bed (very uncomfortable) with two swivel recliners - front seat type, with seat belts.
Added the SeeLevel gauges, rebuilt the pantry with roll out trays larger than the wire baskets supplied, Put a cabinet door where the TV would go in the bedroom for linen storage, added a valve system to fill the water tank when hooked to water supply instead of filling from the outside, added an automatic changeover switch for generator/shore power, wired in surge protector, throw rugs on top of the carpet for easier cleaning, macerator pump for holding tank dumping, Maxair covers on all the fans/vents, US Gear braking system for the toad, a skinny little cabinet on the outside wall between the recliners to hold "stuff".
Lets see, is that all? guess that's most of them but probably forgot a couple. Every time we spend some time in it we think of something else. I would like to replace the dinette with a cabinet along the outside wall with a folding and extending table. Use a couple of chairs that would Velcro to the edge of the table for travel. those dinette benches are not very comfortable.
RE: Saf-Tee / Saf-TTE tire monitor
For those of us who have the system I have a question. I just had the Toad stems changed over to Metal and also had my two gages checked with the tire shops calibrated gage, one was 2 lbs off and one was right on at 32psi. When I got home I installed the sensors and find that they are showing a low of 26 (the one we checked my gage on) and a high of 31. How accurate are the sensors? Anyone else experianced this?
I have one that is 4 pounds low and other that is 2 pounds high. Otherwise the other 8 are right on according to my three tire gauges. Usually don't use all three, but did to just cross check.
RE: Advice on our first Class C purchase
I agree with Bordercollie. When we went looking for the upgrade for our truck mounted camper, our criteria were: 1. a walk around bed, 2. a full dry bathroom, 3. a comfortable place to sit, relax and read, 4. storage.
The smallest MH that fit all of these was a 30' with two slides and we are pleased with the results after making a few changes after the purchase and after using it for a year or so to really decide what and how to fit it to the way we want to use it. No one rig is going to fit, so you compromise and then modify. This past summer we lived in it for three months while traveling nearly 12,000 miles, and we were ready to go for another several weeks when we did return to our stick built house and its weed grown garden.
RE: New Coach Essentials Checklist
Experience shows that almost invariably something you need to buy right now because either something broke, or something wore out and you just thought you "might" need another one some day so you buy an extra and throw it in your kit of spare parts or "maybe need some day" box will never be used again. The only parts that I have in the last 30 years or so that I did that with have sat in their box gathering dings and dust. That includes fan belts, extra master fuses, and a box full of other miscellaneous parts and pieces that I thought I might need. I have only used that 30 foot 10 gauge extension once, the day I needed it and bought it at the nearby Wally World. It now just takes up space. Of course I do have a 100 ft. 12 gauge extension cord too, that does come in handy when parking in someone's yard.
But I guess my main point is, get the required essentials like the first list I put on this thread and acquire the rest as you need them or don't mind their space taking presence. I know that every trip or three, I have to off load things into my at home "might need boxes".
RE: ScanGuage II
There are two sets of codes for the Ford, CAN and PWF. Try one and if it doesn't work for yours, then enter the other set of data. One of these will work, at least it did for mine. I don't remember which one did work. I now read TFT, MPG, Average MPG and OAT.
